Out of all the choices that we had choose from where retire to, why on earth would we pick this little seaside town halfway down the pacific coast of Mexico. Friends on the search had checked out various southern States of the U.S. but with the terrible exchange rate against the Canadian dollar, that really was not an option for us, we had seriously considered Port Charlotte, Florida, at one time but now are extremely glad that we hadn’t acted at that time.
We had driven down to Mexico from Canada, with no clear idea as to what to expect but the author of the book said we could live in Mexico for $500 per month; American dollars admittedly, but still interesting at our potential exchange rate of $850. Not knowing where exactly we wanted to stop first, we had checked out dozens of books from the local library and made notes of several places of potential interest along the coastline and if we didn’t like those, then we’d head in towards Lake Chapala and go to the interior north from there If that didn’t suit.
Unknowingly, we arrived in Manzanillo the year after a heavy duty earthquake had made real damage to the local infrastructure and initially it seemed a very dreary, rather dirty little town. Once we realised the cause and saw what the local Mexican people were doing to repair the roads & surroundings we understood a little more and were quite impressed with what was happening. That impression has not left us and we never cease to be amazed at how hard the local people try to keep their town clean and tidy and how proud they are of their homes. (Local wall doodler artists aside.) They are constantly sweeping even bare earth plots. Dropping garbage everywhere is still somewhat of a problem but even this is starting to change as children are taught different behaviour in schools.
Manzanillo itself absolutely grows upon one. It is a relatively small town of now about 150,000 people, with the largest port on the Pacific which is the cleanest port we have ever seen and the main local & state industry. tourism comes even after farming and fishing, so is a very distant third and for that we are all grateful. Here you will not find the tourist traps, aggressive beach traders and whorish time-share sales people harassing you from every corner.
This is a still, somewhat sleepy town on the verge of awakening. And awakening it is, as the more stylish stores and fast food restaurants are starting to appear. This last year in particular has seen tremendous growth. Starbucks, Dairy Queen, Wal-Mart, Kentucky Fried Chicken, Burger King, Office Max & Office Depot have been the first to arrive and we are promised that more are in the wings just waiting their opportunity to launch onto the local scene.
The weather is delightful for the most part with only the rainy season, June to October, a little more difficult to handle (but you don’t have to shovel it). At that time the humidity rises and it is really mandatory to live in a swim suit and dunk in the ocean or the swimming pool several times a day – oh darn! The rest of the year we are at a balmy mid 80’s with slightly cooler nights which make it easy to sleep.
The main draw and attraction, however, are the people, both North American and local Mexicans who taught the foreign community to relax and embrace maņana. The coast zone where Manzanillo is situated is known as the Costa Alegre, the Happy Coast and Manzanillans are a breed apart. Manzanillo and the State of Colima has always been a peaceful place throughout history, dependant on farming and fishing for a livelihood, they are warm, friendly, welcoming, helpful and basically honest people. Not the lazy, sneaky and dangerous Mexican we have read about or who have been depicted by Hollywood. Danger is here as it is everywhere but absolutely not in your face. It is possible to walk in most areas at night without fear of molestation or worse.
The real estate market is still very reasonable by northern standards and even by that set now in nearby Puerto Vallarta to the north of Manzanillo, just a short four hour drive. Good single family dwellings are available both on the beach and in gated communities with security watched condominium and apartment dwellings becoming much more available as the interest in Manzanillo grows. It is still possible to find somewhere to buy for holiday use and eventually longer terms stays for under $100,000 and yet elaborate houses are available for the more discriminating buyer wishing a more upscale lifestyle, in the up to and over million dollar price range. All is possible here.
For those with limited time available the condominiums or gated communities are ideal as there is more protection for property whilst the owner is away but these are also reassuring for the elderly or single people who would feel a little uncomfortable mainly due to lack of language skills.
The beaches are clean and safe with good swimming, fishing and water sports. Diving and snorkelling from the shore line is possible because of that cleanliness not found in many other coastal towns. Sports fishing is abundant many months of the year, with Manzanillo being known as the Sailfish Capital of the world.
This is not a shopping Mecca by any means but with the nearby capital city also called Colima boasting some of the familiar box stores (Sam’s) and Guadalajara only four hours away for more serious purchases, there really is no lack for most things. Every day grocery shopping is becoming easier as more North American goods become available and banking with the ATM machines make
even that chore relatively simple. The modern age is coming to sleepy Manzanillo, hailed by most and regretted by some who wish it were still even ten years ago (when internet cafes were unknown). Communication with the rest of the world is now here.
The night scene is not incredibly active unless swinging disco bars are required (which they are after midnight) or table dance and strip clubs wanted (which they are but not in abundance) but restaurants offer good food at reasonable prices, occasional dancing and even more occasionally we are graced with musical concerts by the Colima University who bring in incredibly talented artists.
Here in Manzanillo life is good, quiet, warm, friendly, inexpensive still, safe and extremely comfortable. We are delighted to be a part of a growing foreign community which both respects and is respected by the local Mexican community.
Freda Rumford 2009